Bar: Black Mountain Wine House

Black Mountain Wine House
15 Union St. at Hoyt Street
Boerum Hill, Brooklyn
Subway: F, G at Carroll St.
Daily, 5pm-midnight


Black Mountain is the most relaxing, un-sceney place imaginable to get together with a group of (female) friends, although I imagine it'd be good for a date too. The setting is causal and comfy, there's a fire in winter and the staff is super-friendly. And the food is good too: cheeses and charcuterie and salads and, on Tuesdays, fondue.

Shops: Cobble Hill/Carroll Gardens

Smith Street: (F,G to Bergen or Carroll) Shops and much yuppie folderol.

Dear Fieldbinder (198 Smith Street @ Baltic)
I worked here for years; the people are wonderful and the clothes beautiful. No "boutique freeze" whatsoever, and very good sales.

Smith & Butler (225 Smith @ Butler)
Kind of old-timey aesthetic boutique, with good men's and womenswear.

Joe's (Su)Perette
This place is an enormous dump and the staff are surly, but do yourself a favor and order a couple of "prosciutto balls."(I think they're 50 cents each.) It's a little cheese-and-prosciutto croquette, fried fresh, that one of my friends likened to "tasting sugar for the first time.)

Court Street (basically a food walk through the old neighborhood!)

Court Pastry
If you like Italian pastry (I'm not such a fan) this is the best.



D'Amico Coffee Roasters (309 Court @ Degraw)
Amazing coffee - to buy or to drink - at a neighborhood stronghold. I love the "Red Hook Blend."

F. Monteleone & Cammareri Bakery (355 Court St @ Union St.)
Everyone has opinions about the best "lard bread," a spicy loaf filled with cheese and hunks of salami. For my money, this is #1 - and they make it in a roll, so you won't need to buy a whole one. But as Lavar would say, don't take my word for it: Caputo's and Mazzola are just a few blocks away!


Esposito's Pork Store (357 Court @ President)
A family-run business with amazing house-made salamis and soppressatas.


Marietta Dry Goods (392 Court St @ 1st Place)
A time-warp clothing store run by two octogenarian brothers who will tell you stories of the old neighborhood. Pick up some cheap PJs, undershirts or a half-slip while you're at it.

(Look for the "social clubs" hereabouts: you'll know them by the old men speaking Italian.)

Olive's Very Vintage (434 Court Street @ 2nd Place)
A touch pricey, but I've had some good finds!


Caputo Fine Foods (460 Court @ 4th Place)
Amazing sandwiches and the most divine homemade mozzarella. And I love how three generations work there at once


Store 518 (518 Court @ Nelson)
Vintage and oddness. Have found some wonderful shoes, an antique doll, and some vintage name barrettes for friends.

Neighborhood Overview: Dumbo, Brooklyn Heights and BoCoCa

Although this actually covers a few miles, they are a natural grouping.

Cross the Brooklyn Bridge at some point - it is equally nice in good weather or after dark.

Under the bridge is Dumbo, which is somewhat ridiculous and has become like a mini-Soho, with its industrial buildings turned into home stores etc. If you are here, though, you may want to check out Jacques Torres' Chocolate Shop or the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory. There is also a really pretty park along the waterfront. AVOID GRIMALDI'S. You will see the lines, but they are suckers and there is better pizza to be had.

If you walk south, further into Brooklyn, you will be in Brooklyn Heights. This is staid and mature, but very beautiful. A nice spot for a coffee, if needed, is Iris Cafe (20 Columbia Pl between Joralemon St & Atlantic Ave) , or get a drink at Henry Public (329 Henry St between Atlantic Ave & Pacific St.)

Next, you hit what realtors call BoCoCa, but which is really Boerum Hill, Cobble Hill, and Carroll Gardens. All you need to know is, they have all been gentrified like crazy. You don't need to know it, in fact, because it will shortly become obvious. (In Boerum Hill, one may find the New York City Transit Museum.)

Carroll Gardens, which is very pretty, was a Little Italy until recently, still is a bit. I have a lot of restaurant tips for this area and, because it's a neat area, some shopping tips, too. I recommend a leisurely stroll down Court Street, maybe ending up at Lucali or Frankies.

Restaurant: Petite Crevette

*Petite Crevette
144 Union St at Hicks St. (just across BQE)
Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn
Mon-Sat, noon-3pm and 5pm-11pm; Sun, 5pm-11pm
Subway: F,G to Carroll Street


The food at Petite Crevette is good: simple, no-frills preparations of impeccably fresh fish, a list of which is written on brown paper every day. But the atmosphere is magical, and simply put there's nowhere more festive in the city to BYO champagne and toast to someone's birthday, or promotion, or whatever. Yes, it's BYOB, also cash-only: there are both ATMs and a wine store around the corner.

(I think they're calling this the "Columbia Street Waterfront District" these days, but it's obviously just an extension of Carroll Gardens.)

Restaurant: Lucali

Lucali
575 Henry St. nr. First Pl.
Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn
Hours: 6-11ish, closed Tues.
Subway: F, G to Carroll Street


Lucali is, hands-down, my favorite pizzeria in New York. The debates about pizza, as seen on Chowhound et al, are very tiresome indeed, and the one concensus is that Grimaldi's is a pale former shadow of itself and only sucker tourists wait in the endless line for it. While I abstain from these debates on grounds of having a life (sort of; I am making this) I will say that while you may have to wait for Lucali, too, I don't mind. I love the staff, I love the cozy, sepia-toned space, I love Mark, the owner, I love the BYOB policy, and of course I love the delicious pizza. I get it with just fresh basil, and maybe a calzone. We'll go together, actually.

Restaurant: Frankies 457

*Frankies 457 Sputino
457 Court Street at 4th Place
Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn
(There's also a location on the LES)
Subway: F to Carroll Street


*Frankies is so amazing: local and special and relaxed and really delicious Italian food. It's in the heart of old Carroll Gardens, although it's quintessential new Brooklyn. There are small plates, like salads and vegetables, or larger dishes like the best eggplant parm sandwich on the face of the Earth and scrumptious meatballs with raisins and pine nuts in addictive red sauce. Go early, and remember: cash only.