Neighborhood Overview: Dumbo, Brooklyn Heights and BoCoCa

Although this actually covers a few miles, they are a natural grouping.

Cross the Brooklyn Bridge at some point - it is equally nice in good weather or after dark.

Under the bridge is Dumbo, which is somewhat ridiculous and has become like a mini-Soho, with its industrial buildings turned into home stores etc. If you are here, though, you may want to check out Jacques Torres' Chocolate Shop or the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory. There is also a really pretty park along the waterfront. AVOID GRIMALDI'S. You will see the lines, but they are suckers and there is better pizza to be had.

If you walk south, further into Brooklyn, you will be in Brooklyn Heights. This is staid and mature, but very beautiful. A nice spot for a coffee, if needed, is Iris Cafe (20 Columbia Pl between Joralemon St & Atlantic Ave) , or get a drink at Henry Public (329 Henry St between Atlantic Ave & Pacific St.)

Next, you hit what realtors call BoCoCa, but which is really Boerum Hill, Cobble Hill, and Carroll Gardens. All you need to know is, they have all been gentrified like crazy. You don't need to know it, in fact, because it will shortly become obvious. (In Boerum Hill, one may find the New York City Transit Museum.)

Carroll Gardens, which is very pretty, was a Little Italy until recently, still is a bit. I have a lot of restaurant tips for this area and, because it's a neat area, some shopping tips, too. I recommend a leisurely stroll down Court Street, maybe ending up at Lucali or Frankies.

Neighborhood Overview: Upper East Side

Subway Line: 4,5 (express) 6 (local)
Overall, you'd have to call the UES Ritzy/Gossip-Girly/Old School/Very wealthy/somewhat beyond parody. It's staid and elegant and not at all hip. But it's the home of upper Madison Avenue and the "Museum Mile" (the Frick, the Met, the Guggenheim, Neue Gallery and the Jewish Museum to name but a few) and a natural spot to visit. Lovely for walking - on 5th, or in Central Park, or up and down Madison.


I also really like The Museum of the City of New York a bit further uptown.



Foodwise, it's not a booming scene, and most of it's fancy, but there are several eminently civilized spots for coffee etc.


To the East, you've got Yorkville. This is now a rather douchey assemblage of young financial types etc. but traditionally, this was NYC's German neighborhood, and there are a few vestiges that are neat if you're in the area. Hit Glaser's Bakery, Schaller & Weber's deli/grocery or the Heidelberg Restaurant for beer, old-school German food, and elderly waitresses in dirndls! For a snack, your best bet is the (modern, non-German) Two Little Red Hens Bakery.