Shops: Cobble Hill/Carroll Gardens

Smith Street: (F,G to Bergen or Carroll) Shops and much yuppie folderol.

Dear Fieldbinder (198 Smith Street @ Baltic)
I worked here for years; the people are wonderful and the clothes beautiful. No "boutique freeze" whatsoever, and very good sales.

Smith & Butler (225 Smith @ Butler)
Kind of old-timey aesthetic boutique, with good men's and womenswear.

Joe's (Su)Perette
This place is an enormous dump and the staff are surly, but do yourself a favor and order a couple of "prosciutto balls."(I think they're 50 cents each.) It's a little cheese-and-prosciutto croquette, fried fresh, that one of my friends likened to "tasting sugar for the first time.)

Court Street (basically a food walk through the old neighborhood!)

Court Pastry
If you like Italian pastry (I'm not such a fan) this is the best.



D'Amico Coffee Roasters (309 Court @ Degraw)
Amazing coffee - to buy or to drink - at a neighborhood stronghold. I love the "Red Hook Blend."

F. Monteleone & Cammareri Bakery (355 Court St @ Union St.)
Everyone has opinions about the best "lard bread," a spicy loaf filled with cheese and hunks of salami. For my money, this is #1 - and they make it in a roll, so you won't need to buy a whole one. But as Lavar would say, don't take my word for it: Caputo's and Mazzola are just a few blocks away!


Esposito's Pork Store (357 Court @ President)
A family-run business with amazing house-made salamis and soppressatas.


Marietta Dry Goods (392 Court St @ 1st Place)
A time-warp clothing store run by two octogenarian brothers who will tell you stories of the old neighborhood. Pick up some cheap PJs, undershirts or a half-slip while you're at it.

(Look for the "social clubs" hereabouts: you'll know them by the old men speaking Italian.)

Olive's Very Vintage (434 Court Street @ 2nd Place)
A touch pricey, but I've had some good finds!


Caputo Fine Foods (460 Court @ 4th Place)
Amazing sandwiches and the most divine homemade mozzarella. And I love how three generations work there at once


Store 518 (518 Court @ Nelson)
Vintage and oddness. Have found some wonderful shoes, an antique doll, and some vintage name barrettes for friends.

Neighborhood Overview: Dumbo, Brooklyn Heights and BoCoCa

Although this actually covers a few miles, they are a natural grouping.

Cross the Brooklyn Bridge at some point - it is equally nice in good weather or after dark.

Under the bridge is Dumbo, which is somewhat ridiculous and has become like a mini-Soho, with its industrial buildings turned into home stores etc. If you are here, though, you may want to check out Jacques Torres' Chocolate Shop or the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory. There is also a really pretty park along the waterfront. AVOID GRIMALDI'S. You will see the lines, but they are suckers and there is better pizza to be had.

If you walk south, further into Brooklyn, you will be in Brooklyn Heights. This is staid and mature, but very beautiful. A nice spot for a coffee, if needed, is Iris Cafe (20 Columbia Pl between Joralemon St & Atlantic Ave) , or get a drink at Henry Public (329 Henry St between Atlantic Ave & Pacific St.)

Next, you hit what realtors call BoCoCa, but which is really Boerum Hill, Cobble Hill, and Carroll Gardens. All you need to know is, they have all been gentrified like crazy. You don't need to know it, in fact, because it will shortly become obvious. (In Boerum Hill, one may find the New York City Transit Museum.)

Carroll Gardens, which is very pretty, was a Little Italy until recently, still is a bit. I have a lot of restaurant tips for this area and, because it's a neat area, some shopping tips, too. I recommend a leisurely stroll down Court Street, maybe ending up at Lucali or Frankies.